How Not to Hold Your Camera

On forums all over the web, you'll see endless complaints from photographers who claim the camera or lens is the cause of their blurry photos. In rare instances, this may be the case. More often than not however, the reason is poor technique.  

The ad below is a bad example of how NOT to hold a camera if you want consistently sharp photos.  It's being supported by one hand awkwardly with little support to keep it stable. While the woman in the picture very well may be experienced enough to do this, most new photographers would go home with out-of-focus images that suffer from camera shake. 

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Perhaps a better way to get the child's attention, would be something like the example below: as it allows you to hold the camera with both hands, or mount it to a tripod.

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As I've said before, Image Stabilizer and Vibration Reduction do not replace good technique.  

 

Manufacturers claim that their version of image stabilization will help you to capture sharper images.  In theory, it should work, but in most real life applications it proves to be rather worthless.  Let's explore several examples from a variety of shooting situations.

 

 

Why IS and VR lenses are Not Worth It

 

Landscapes:  When you are capturing images in low light around sunrise or sunset, exposure times can be several seconds long. IS and VR will not help you here as the camera must remain perfectly still.  A tripod with a cable release is a necessity for this type of shooting.  Most IS/VR lenses recommend the feature be turned OFF when using a tripod.  

Sports: For most sporting events you'll want to freeze the action. This requires a high speed burst mode and a fast shutter speed of 1/500 or better.  If you are using proper hand holding technique or a monopod, camera shake is highly unlikely since the shutter is simply not open long enough. The same is true for bird and wildlife photography.  

Weddings and events: The light will likely be very poor at an indoor event. As such, you'll be working with an external flash, or larger strobe lights. You'll use these in conjunction with the cameras flash sync speed. Depending on your specific camera, this is at least 1/200th of a second. Considering that you'll likely be using a lens in the 24-70mm ballpark, handholding at 1/200 or 1/250 is easily achieved without camera shake. 

Macro: When shooting frame filling close ups of tiny subjects, even the tiniest bit of hand shake is greatly magnified.  Here is another example where Image Stabilization and Vibration Reduction is not recommended.  For truly sharp close ups, a solid tripod is required.  

Now, let's take a look at the cost difference.  The Canon 70-200mm f2.8L USM (NON IS) = $1449.  The same lens with Image Stabilization technology = $1999.  It also weighs approximately one pound more.  Can you justify the additional cost of $550 for a rather unnecessary feature?  

 

 

 

 

Chris Corradino